3D printing - Bandsaw Fence

I spent some time earlier in the week getting the bandsaw at Hackspace Manchester working, so now its cutting again!  The main problem with the bandsaw is cutting straight, as it was an ebay purchase it diddnt come with a fence, so there was nothing to run the cut material against.  This model of bandsaw hasnt been made in around 30 years, so trying to buy a new one will be impossible, and ebay is too much hard work.

Though we do have a 3d printer... and a workshop.  Idea!

Step one was to have a look at the bandsaw.  It has a channel running along the front , so I took some measurements to see what I was working with.

channel

paper

So, i had the measurements, it was time to take to my CAD software and design something to fit in the channel.  My choice for this is OpenSCAD.  I used it to first create the shape of the channel, then to carve this shape out of a block.

openscad1

openscad2

I extruded this to a few mm wide, then printed it to test.  There was a bit of tweaking needed to get it to fit exactly, so i ended up doing 4 iterations with the sizes tweaked slightly.

testpieces

testprint

test

Once i had one that fitted, i printed it out extruded to 20mm to check it would fit and slide correctly.

testfits

It did, so i moved onto designing the actual fence.  Step one was to cut some aluminium extrusion to size, and measure it.  A month or so ago I had managed to womble a nice straight piece of 16mm x 16mm  3.2mm thick L channel, which was pretty much the perfect size.  I cut this to size, and modelled it in openscad.

cad

The actual cad modelling took a couple of hours of tweaking, but i the above picture shows the basic steps.

First off i extruded my clamp to 50mm wide, and added a wedge to the side of it.  50mm gives enough width for it to sit in the runner, and counteract twisting force from the back of the fence being pushed on.  The wedge is to give support to the top part of the L channel.

Second, I added two captive nuts and holes for M5 bolts.  Mainly because we have a massive bag of M5 hex-head bolts that are perfect for printed thumbscrews. Theoretically i could have threaded into the ABS directly, but i felt this wouldnt last, so embedding a nut seemed like the best option.

Third, i carved out the hole for the L channel.  This leaves a bit of an odd shaped unsupported piece, which may be weak. Because this piece will be in the channel, i decided to leave it, as it'll make measuring up on the built-in ruler more accurate.

Lastly, i added some pilot holes for attaching the aluminium to the 3d printed part.  i decided to use 3mm x 12mm self tapping screws for this, because i had them on hand, and they can be countersunk fairly easily.

printed

I test-assembled the whole thing in the vice, it fitted nicely in the channel, so it was ready for connecting together.  I marked, center punched, drilled and countersunk the holes for the 3 screws that hold the whole thing together.  Add some screws and we're sorted!

fits

Of course, i had to do a test cut at this point, so some of the scrap acrylic pile was chopped into little strips.

cutting

Woohoo, it worked!  All it needed to be complete is some knobs.  So i headed over to thingiverse to find a knob that'll fit nicely over an m5 nut... and found nothing useful.  No worries, i just OpenSCADdded one up.

knob

finished

So there it is, a useful thing i've made on the 3d printer that wasnt a part for a 3d printer!

 Source files (stl, openscad) are available on My GitHub 

Minimus Pin Functions v1.2

Minimus Pin Layout v1.2

Got fed up of not having the interrupt identifiers on the original minimus pinout i made, so here is version 1.1 with interrupt numbers labelled!

Stay tuned for a pinout of the Minimus 32K, as UK hackspacers have just bought over 300 of them to play with!

UPDATE: I have checked the atmega32u2 datasheet, and all pins and functions are the same as the at90usb162, so the above sheet will work for both.  Yay!

UPDATE: Oops, had the LED pins switched. fixed in v1.2

Slides from Raspberry Jam Manchester

I have been asked for th slides from the presentaion I gave at Raspberry Jam Manchester this past sunday, so here they are!

PDF Format

OpenOffice ODP Format

Original source material for the Direct Python ID section was originally posted by Matt Lloyd at http://lwk.mjhosting.co.uk/?p=343 and http://lwk.mjhosting.co.uk/?p=376.  The Slice of Pi addon boarrd is available from ciseco at http://shop.ciseco.co.uk/slice-of-pi/ for the absurdly cheap price of £3.90!

The PANIC Button

Ok, bit of explanation first.  We have an iMac set up as a 'democratic jukebox' at HAC:Manchester.  The idea being that anyone can put music on it, and it plays the entire library on shuffle during our hack sessions for a bit of background music.

The problem is, of course, some people have an... odd taste in music, so sometimes the jukebox ends up flipping between Aqua and Cannibal Corpse for ten minutes, and the horror of this was just too much!

Enter the PANIC button.

 

The button uses a minimus board. The minimus is a carrier for the AT90USB162, an AVR microcontroller with onboard USB hardware, which means it can be programmed to show up as any USB device.  Before getting the button I modified one of the pieces of LUFA demo software, a media keyboard, and stripped it down to just read the one button on the minimus.  When the button is pressed, it sends the keycode for next track. 

The button's housing is a joke button that played an alarm and flashed when pressed, I ripped its guts out to get to the switch.  After finding the switch contacts on the original board, i soldered on two wires to connecto to the AVR.

Next,  I stripped off the USB connector  from the minimus, and added a 1m USB lead directly to the pads, to make it fit in the old speaker housing section of the button.  I connected the leads from the button to PD7 and GND on the minimus, the same as the onboard button.  This has the handy side effect that if the button is pressed while being plugged in, it boots into DFU mode, allowing me to upgrade the firmware easily.

I cut a slot in the casing for the wire to escape, and added a couple of cable ties for strain relief.

Press Button, Song Skips, Panic averted!

 [Download Code] - AVR C

Review - Farnell #5019849 - HM100 Digital Multimeter


Today, we have a HM100 Digital Multimeter from our friends at farnell!

The multimeter gives a lot of features for not much money, costing only £31.23.  Functions include:

  • Autoranging (so you dont have to keep changing settings until you find if you should be in Ohms or MegaOhms)
  • Backlit (for hacking in the dark)
  • Auto Power off (who doesnt forget to turn their meter off)
  • Diode Tester with Beep
  • Measurements include
    • AC & DC Voltage
    • AC & DC Current
    • Capacitance
    • Resistance
    • hFe (Transistor Gain) 
    • Temperature (using supplied probe)

 First impressions when opening it up are very good, the accessories are all well packed, i was surprised by the inclusion of remote thermocouple for temperature sensing, as that isnt a feature normally found on such cheap meters.  The LCD screen is nice and BIG, so you can see the numbers even in low light, and the clip-out stand is a very clever addition.

Sensing voltage is fairly easy, switch the meter to AC or DC, and put the probes of the meter across the thing you want to measure the voltage across.  

Current is also easy, interrupt the circuit, and put the meter in-line with the circuit you want to measure.

Resistance sensing is the same as in most multimeters, put the probes in parallel with the device you want to measure the resistance of.  Bear in mind that if you're measuring something thats already in a circuit, you'll be measuring the resistance of the whole circuit between those two points, not just of the device you're looking at!

To measure Capacitance, use the multi-function socket, and plug in your capacitor to the  holes next to Cx.  If your capacitor is polarised, make sure you plug it in the right way round! Measuring this capacitorshows it's actual value is 50uF less than it is marked. 

 

hFE is transistor gain, and is often misunderstood, so i'll try and give a quick overview of it.  Transistor Gain is the amount of amplification between the current flowing into the base pin (Base Current, Ib) and the current flowing into the collector pin (Collector Current, Ic).  It can be calculated by dividing the Collector Current by the Base Current, and has no units.  To get the total current rating of the transistor, we add together Ib and Ic, to get Ie, the Emitter Current.

Lets add some numbers!  hFE = Ic / Ib, so if the current flowing into base is 100mA, and the current flowing into collector is 1000mA, the hFE will be 1000mA/100mA = 10.

This also works the other way round, so if we know the hFE transistor of our transistor is 10, and the Base Current is 100mA, we multiply them to get the Collector Current 10*100mA = 1000mA = 1A.  If we need the total current rating we can now add together Ic and Ib, getting 1100mA (1.1A).

To test the gain of a transistor on the meter, first check the data sheet for the pinout of the transistor.  Put the transistor into the multi-function socket.  The meter will show the the gain of your transistor!  Yay!   

An unusual function on a low cost meter, the thermocouple allows you to measure temperatures from -20ºC to 1000ºC (!!!)

 

The Diode tester is used to measure the forward voltage drop of a diode.  You can also use it to check the polarity of a diode by trying the diode in each way.

Sometimes, you've just gotta check that something is connected.  The Continuity tester lets you 'beep it out', ie. it will emit an audible beep if the probes are connected.  We often use this when making a PCB, as you can end up with tiny shorts or track breaks that can make really odd things happen!

General Usage & Verdict

First off, bad points!  There are a couple of (very) minor oddities i've noticed while using the meter, the first being that you have to manually switch it to DC when measuring Voltage or Current.  As a hobbyist, i'm usually using DC, so it'd be nice if this setting was remembered between function changes.  Relatedly, when the auto power off is activated, and the meter turns off, turning it back on puts you back in AC mode.  Its not a massive problem of course, but has led to a few head-scratching moments.

All in all, the HM100 is a fully featured multimeter, for a sensible price, with a few minor niggles.  For 30 quid, it provides functionality only usually seen on a £150+ multimeter.  If i was after a multimeter, i'd buy one!

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